This article analyzes the vertical structure of the onshore current including the wave-induced current by an equation developed for the radiation stress against water depth.A coupled model COHERENS-SED is adopted to calculate the wave,tidal current,wave-induced current and sediment simultaneously.By applying the new model to Yangpu Bay,its reliability is verified.Then an ideal coastal domain is defined to simulate the nearshore current and wave setup with normal incident waves.The numerical and experimental results for the vertical structure show two undertows,also a visible setup in the surf zone.It demonstrates the importance of the radiation stress in wave-induced currents and mean water levels(set-up/down).
The dissolved oxygen concentration is an important index of water quality,and the atmosphere is one of the important sources of the dissolved oxygen.In this paper,the mass conservation law and the dimensional analysis method are employed to study the oxygen transfer under regular and non-breaking waves,and a unified oxygen transfer coefficient equation is obtained with consideration of the effect of kinetic energy and wave period.An oxygen transfer experiment for the intermediate depth water wave is performed to measure the wave parameters and the dissolved oxygen concentration.The experimental data and the least squares method are used to determine the constant in the oxygen transfer coefficient equation.The experimental data and the previous reported data are also used to further validate the oxygen transfer coefficient,and the agreement is satisfactory.The unified equation shows that the oxygen transfer coefficient increases with the increase of a parameter coupled with the wave height and the wave length,but it decreases with the increase of the wave period,which has a much greater influence on the oxygen transfer coefficient than the coupled parameter.
将适用于近岸较大区域波浪传播变形的三种模型,即基于抛物型缓坡方程的不规则波模型、引入浅水波浪谱TMA谱的SWAN(simulating waves nearshore)模型以及采用默认JONSWAP谱的SWAN模型应用于特拉华大学(University of Delaware)圆形浅滩实验进行比较。结果显示,抛物型缓坡方程和SWAN的模拟结果与实验所测数据符合都比较好;SWAN在非线性作用较强的浅滩中心及靠后部效果更佳,而抛物型缓坡方程由于没有考虑非线性作用,模拟得到的最大波高较实测值偏高,且波高变化较为剧烈。
