For higher accuracy in simulating the transformation of three dimensional waves, in consideration of the advantages of constant panels and linear elements, a combined boundary elements is applied in this research. The method can be used to remove the transverse vibration due to the accumulation of computational errors. A combined boundary condition of sponge layer and Sommerfeld radiation condition is used to remove the reflected waves from the computing domain. By following the water particle on the water surface, the third order Stokes wave transform is simulated by the numerical wave flume technique. The computed results are in good agreement with theoretical ones.
Based on the integral equation transformed from three dimensional Laplace equation and by the adoption of the division manner of sub-region boundary element method, the numerical computations of the velocity potential of each sub-region are given considering the continuity conditions of potential and normal derivatives at the interface of sub-regions, Therefore, computation of wave deformation in offshore flow field is realized. The present numerical model provides a good solution for the application of boundary element method to the calculation of wave deformation in large areas.
Regular wave deformation and breaking on very gentle slopes is calculated by Mixed-Eulerian-Lagrangian procedure. The velocity potentials and their normal derivatives on the boundary are calculated through the mixed 0-1 boundary element method. The wave elevation and the potentials of Lime-stepping integration are determined by the 2nd-order Taylor expansion at the nodes of free surface boundary elements. During calculation the x-coordinates of the free surface element nodes are supposed to remain unchanged, i.e. the partial derivatives of wave elevation and potentials with respect to x are considered as zero. The numerical results of asymmetric parameters of breaking waves are verified by experimental study. It is shown that when the wave asymmetry is weak, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particales occurs at the wave peak and, the average ratio of this maximum velocity to wave celerity is 0.96. However, when the wave asymmetry is strong, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particles occurs just before the wave crest, and the average ratio of the maximum velocity to wave celerity is about 0.98. The numerical results also show that the asymmetry of wave profiles affects the value of the wave breaking index (H/d) (b), that is, when the asymmetric characteristics are weak, the value of wave breaking index coincides with that given by Goda; on the contrary, when the asymmetry of wave profiles is notable, the value of wave breaking index is close to Nelson's result. The experimental study gives the same conclusions.
Based on theoretical analysis, numerical calculation, and experimental study. this paper discusses breaker indices of irregular waves, transformation of wave spectrum, characteristics and computation of breaking waves, as well as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break. Computed results are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and ocean wave field measurements.
An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentle slope of 1:200, In the experiment, asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wave breaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regular waves on very mild slopes. The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influence of bottom slope l, relative water depth d/ L-0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regular waves. The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, while the coefficient A should be 0.15. The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wave theory is 0.74. Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after breaking and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves.
